In the event you’ve frolicked exploring the skincare aspect of TikTok, you recognize that dermatologists love to tout the advantages of vitamin C serums and lotions. They declare the vitamin can brighten and agency the pores and skin, protect it from solar and environmental injury, diminish dark spots and even reduce the signs of aging.
“All of its numerous advantages make it a prime suggestion for many dermatologists,” mentioned Dr. Fatima Fahs, a dermatologist in Michigan.
But when you dig into the analysis on how vitamin C truly impacts the pores and skin, a unique image emerges. In one 2021 review printed in The Journal of Beauty Dermatology, as an example, Dr. Fahs and her colleagues evaluated how efficient numerous vitamin C formulations have been at enhancing pores and skin well being. They concluded that whereas some formulations appeared to profit the pores and skin, the general outcomes have been blended.
The issue is that though vitamin C is probably going good for the pores and skin, it’s exhausting to make a product that works the best way it’s imagined to.
How vitamin C works — in concept
Analysis means that when vitamin C penetrates the pores and skin, it protects and improves it in numerous methods.
It’s an antioxidant, so it can neutralize damaging molecules referred to as free radicals, which “speed up indicators of growing old,” mentioned Dr. Whitney Bowe, a dermatologist in New York Metropolis.
Vitamin C may stimulate the pores and skin’s production of collagen, a protein that will increase pores and skin firmness and elasticity and helps hold it plump and hydrated. Due to this, “utilizing a robust, steady vitamin C serum constantly over time may also help clean out the looks of superb strains and wrinkles,” Dr. Bowe mentioned.
Lastly, vitamin C can brighten darkish spots as a result of it inhibits an enzyme referred to as tyrosinase that causes pores and skin discoloration, Dr. Bowe mentioned. Though there was little analysis on how successfully vitamin C does this, one small study printed in 1996 discovered that vitamin C lowered the looks of darkish pores and skin patches or age-related freckles in 19 out of 34 individuals who used it.
Why some merchandise don’t work
Some vitamin C merchandise aren’t made in ways in which make sure the vitamin truly will get into the pores and skin and does its job. “You actually have to know learn how to formulate them and learn how to bundle them correctly” and never all corporations get that proper, mentioned Dr. Patricia Farris, a dermatologist in Metairie, La.
Vitamin C is an unstable molecule and it could simply break down into a unique molecule that doesn’t assist the pores and skin, Dr. Bowe mentioned. For instance, L-ascorbic acid, a type of vitamin C discovered in lots of skincare merchandise, degrades when it’s uncovered to warmth, a excessive pH or daylight, she mentioned — which might occur throughout transit and storage.
Even when the vitamin C in a product stays steady, it could not penetrate the pores and skin deeply sufficient to profit it. The pores and skin’s outermost layer repels water-loving molecules like L-ascorbic acid — and that signifies that the molecule might not get sufficiently absorbed, Dr. Bowe mentioned.
Different derivatives of vitamin C, similar to tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid, have a unique chemistry and may extra simply penetrate the pores and skin’s outer layer, which is why some merchandise include these types of the vitamin as an alternative, Dr. Bowe mentioned. These formulations will also be gentler on the pores and skin.
However these types of vitamin C are comparatively new and do not need as a lot analysis supporting their advantages, Dr. Fahs mentioned. “The fact is, human research exhibiting efficacy are nonetheless very restricted,” she mentioned.
Choosing a product
If you’re contemplating a vitamin C product that comprises L-ascorbic acid, Dr. Fahs really useful on the lookout for a formulation that additionally comprises vitamin E and ferulic acid, each of which might enhance the vitamin’s stability and the way properly it penetrates the pores and skin.
To maximise the possibility {that a} vitamin C product will work, go for one which’s housed in opaque packaging and makes use of a pump applicator slightly than a dropper, Dr. Bowe mentioned. These options assist forestall the vitamin C from degrading.
Dr. Farris really useful utilizing vitamin C merchandise made by trusted bigger skincare corporations, similar to SkinCeuticals, which usually tend to carry out medical testing for efficacy than smaller cosmetics corporations.
As a result of L-ascorbic acid may cause irritation, folks with delicate pores and skin or rosacea might wish to use a product that comprises one of many gentler types of vitamin C, similar to tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Dr. Fahs mentioned.
Nonetheless confused about what, if something, to purchase? Speak to a dermatologist, Dr. Bowe mentioned, although some docs could also be extra educated in regards to the analysis than others.
“Don’t be afraid to ask inquiries to optimize your skincare,” she mentioned. “You deserve to seek out the merchandise that work finest on your pores and skin’s wants.”
